Ramadhan in Morocco is well, interesting.  Today is the 17th October, and the 12th day of Ramadhan.  I fasted on the first day, the 5th, but then stopped because I had the 'rhea and was taking medication.  Anyhow, I started again about five days ago and have been almost-perfectly fasting ever since.  I say almost-perfectly because, as you know, I'm not Muslim, I don't pray, and there is a debate amongst my friends and students over whether or not it's okay to brush your teeth in the morning provided you don't swallow.  I brush mine, because it helps me get through the day (you know, not having Ramadhan-breath).  Something that Moroccans continuously tell me is that that stinky breath smells like "jen'na" or "heaven" to God.  Okay, I guess so.  It smells like ass to me.

Anyhow, these are a few of my favorite things about Ramadhan here:

-McDonald's. This is really funny- McDonald's in Morocco has these signs out and inside that say "Ramadhan Moubarak" and have a picture of a typical McD's meal, plus some dates, a bowl of harira, and a few pieces of shebakia (traditional lftour foods in Morocco). I broke my fast there on the first day of Ramadan just to be ironic, and it was quite hilarious - there was live music, we were served harira with our Chicken McNuggets, and the employees were all dancing in the restaurant! Mind you, McD's in Morocco is actually considered kind of "upscale" by the young generation, so this was a swanky affair, practically! They also have cooler uniforms than in the US. We couldn't help but wonder though, if the harira is mass-produced or if there's a little old Berber lady in the back of the kitchen.

-The TV shows. My boyfriend told me yesterday that the reason he refuses to come over before 7:30 during Ramadhan is not because he's spending time with his family, but because the comedy series on 2M (Moroccan channel) is so damn funny. Apparently it's only on during Ramadhan, and only right after lftour, and in the wee hours (ie 2:00-4:00 am). I've seen it, and although my Arabic is shaky, it is pretty damn funny. If you're here, try to catch it (it starts at 6:30, after the prayer times). The Coca-Cola commercials that show a family waiting for the adan then breaking their fast by pouring Coca are pretty great too.

-Harira is free at most restaurants. Granted, I've been told by Moroccans to avoid it because they don't properly refrigerate it most of the time, but if you know the restaurant to be safe, it's good stuff.

As I half-jokingly tell my students, I've been breaking my fast with Honey Nut Cheerios.  Sad, but true.  So finally, the invitations have started pouring in.  Yesterday, my friend Yasmina invited me to her family's home, where I finally got to break the fast traditionally - I started with two bowls of harira (her aunt makes the best harira in Meknes, I swear!), a pastry, some shebakia, and then some cafe au lait.  I was too stuffed to keep going, but her mother forced me.  Her family is so sweet - her mother stopped studying English at 23, but still tries, and succeeds in even surpassing her younger daughters' abilities sometimes.  Her oldest daughter is my friend Yasmina, the middle daughter is Zineb (who is in one of my English classes and a wonderful student!) and the youngest is Abla, who is only 12.  Their father doesn't speak English or even French, just Arabic.  Anyhow, their mother is always trying to take care of me like my own mother would...I remember the first night I met her, she asked if I missed my mother, and I said of course and felt tears coming to my eyes as she squeezed her own daughter tight.  But last night, when she told me that her family is my family, it was a different kind of tear in my eye.

Next Saturday I will eat lftour with my friend Siham, her young son, and her parents (her husband is in the U.S.), and Sunday insha'Allah, I will break the fast with my friends at Al Akhawayn in Ifrane, who said I am "more than welcome."  I love the spirit of Ramadhan here.